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File: 1623026273619.jpg (1.78 MB, 2592x1728, 3:2, IMG_5068.JPG) ImgOps Exif iqdb

 No.1832

Hey everyone
Gonna start posting my nature photos here. hope you all like em

 No.1833

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 No.1834

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 No.1835

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 No.1836

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 No.1837

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 No.1838

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 No.1839

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 No.1840

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 No.1841

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 No.1842

Woah Gahoole that's unexpected kino, bravo.

 No.1843


 No.1844

>>1833
cool tree bro

 No.1845

Very nice Gahoole. I used to walk more at a Nature preserve trail (so kinda like a park but a bit smaller and with more care towards the wildlife like if a baby bird falls or something's injured) and it really is nice and peaceful. To be able to think and get away if there was trouble between my parents towards eachother or whatever. Unfortunately my allergies have gotten so bad I barely do it anymore cuz of the plants and pollen (I'm looking for good allergists and trying different places so I'll be better) but during that time it was great. Plus most of the people who walked were nice and normal people or nice boomers and asian boomers and some cute girls every once in a while. Too bad there's been an overlap of girls who like nature with leftists, art hoes and vegans.
The ability to think clear and go somewhere with no noise is great. I hesitate to go with the "I love nature" cliche completely though since the reality of nature normalniggers don't see includes lots of brutality and roughness we don't see with the dumber, smaller more docile animals.

 No.1846

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Check out this carp

 No.1847

>>1845
This might seem counterintuitive but bee pollen is great for strengthening your body against pollen allergies. It doesn't affect your system in the same way that free floating pollen does in the wild but causes your body to produce the same histamines regularly.

 No.1848

>>1847
Never heard of it so I'll look it up thanks alot man (or at least if I'm not being fucked with lol)

 No.1855

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 No.1858

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 No.1859

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 No.1860

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 No.1861

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 No.1862

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 No.1865

>>1862
frogs are pretty cool

 No.1869

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 No.1870

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 No.1871

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 No.1872

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 No.1873

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 No.1881

>>1879
Taking pictures of the moon last night, hey?

 No.1888

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 No.1891

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 No.1894

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 No.1897

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 No.1898

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 No.1899

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 No.1900

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 No.1902

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 No.1907

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 No.1908

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 No.1910

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>Still shooting on auto P
rofl, you are burning the highlights.
>>1907
>>1908
Like in the first one but you corrected in the second, also better framing but should've taken 20 or 40 steps to the right so the cars were a guiding line or just not there. That's just a supposition of course, just saying because there might not be the possibility for that many side steps.

Still that's a nice place and the general idea not bad. But in a bunch of the earlier ones there's blur, you probably need to hold your camera tight. The technique goes around holding the camera with your arms very close to your torso and sticking the camera up your mug while you stop breathing for 3 to 5 seconds, that makes you much more stable and avoids sudden movements that might introduce motion blurs, that is extra pesky when shooting small details like foliage.
Oekaki related:
a) Elbows looking down, if possible all the way down. If you are fat (you are) they should rest at the height of ribs and belly.
b) Arms should close near and stick to the torso, with a biceps squeezing your tits like fashion.
c) Wrists at neck level, should not be limp nor bending but with small cameras that happens. Camera handling stance is another story.
d) Camera should be very close to the face, 10cm away at the very max. This is easy if using a viewfinder due to having to do it anyways but some are on the left side of the camera, if so then move your head rather than your arms.
With live view (the preview screen) you go for the 10cm distance.

Obviously these can vary depending on style and camera size, some fags like to shoot with their arms all the way to the right with a small camera just to be act cool, others do it one handed to do something else with their left hand which is understandable and some tough guys do use the right leaning pose rightfully so to frame with the right eye using a long-distance/telephoto lens after searching the subject with the left eye while the focus spot is in the periphery vision.
On a compact camera with normal focal lengths your central arm stance is usually the most stable.

If you are in good terrain you can use an Isosceles leg stance (feet are shoulder width) without sticking your butt out/arching your back so much, if possible not at all to not look awkward and to resist more time without breathing. If you are in rocky or irregular terrain then a Weaver leg stance is better (dominant/stronger leg is on front acting as a pivot while the hindleg is giving you balance). The Weaver stance combination with the camera near face should look like a very close defense kickboxing fighting stance.

One more thing, when pressing the shutter button you can use a two-press technique to minimize camera shake. The shutter button (the one that makes the picture) usually has a "distance" or "travels" when you push it before it takes the picture, some click when you reach that point while others don't, most cameras use that soft press as the focusing function.
The two-touch technique consists of pressing the button while searching anyways even if you are not ready to shoot and then softly press it again, effectively making it much softer to activate thus reduce the abrupt force from your fingers that might shake the camera. Because the focusing mechanism is in that initial push many people move that function in the menu and assign it to another button, more commonly to a button very close to the thumb, otherwise the shots would constantly be out of focus messes.

And remember, shooting pictures with a camera is like hypothetically shooting undesirable targets with a firearm, stance-wise. You need a rock solid position and practice once in a while muscle memory so you can quickly (comfortably) acquire target/framing. When you become good or natural at it then it becomes second-nature and thus you forget about it, making things more fun.

 No.1911

Pretty good

 No.2097

>>1910
Highlights are overrated. Thanks to overexposing the highlights he's getting good shadows.

 No.2098

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>>2097
Technically good shadows but they do not help his composition, half his pics are sky with clouds while the lower half is green hills with green trees, overexposing means half the sky is burned while the hills are visible but still not that different from the exposed4sky one that has intact skies but slightly mushier yet still visible hills.
With RAW files this one wouldn't be much trouble overexposed, if anything it would be better, but because it is a Jay Pegg it is tough to edit. For those SOOC from P&Ss it is better to underexpose because at least you can pretend to salvage some shadows while supposedly being a faster shot thus probably sharper, example in pic related.
Exposing with P&S cameras is usually a different technique than for enthusiast ones with RAW capabilities, in theory they should be the same but oh well.

 No.2105

>>2098
On the contrary, RAW allows you to underexpose more because of the higher dynamic range. But with JPEG, you're better off overexposing a bit than underexposing because the shadows are tougher to recover.

 No.2106

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>>2105
I don't know man, with RAW files you can get away with underexposing often but overexposing by a bit is better because you end up capturing more color info (as colors are light frequencies) and the shadows cleaner anyways, digital is not like film because highlights do clip in pure white rather than some shades under it and visually mixed with film crystal magic (halation or something). In good DR cameras you can go both ways but overexposing enough to recover highlights rather than shadows is better plus you have better colors.

In lower end cameras where dynamic range is not that good you clip highlights much faster and shadows are not that easy to recover either, you end up having to zero the exposure or underexpose to have the whites' integrity while leaving the blacks crushed, one can either lift them which makes noise appear or up the black's shade to a gray to make it not so uncomfortable to see by some (i don't mind blacks being completely crushed to a mush if the picture is a chiaroscuro composition). Also these kind of low consumer cameras do saturate colors often to curtail some of these sensors not getting that much light info, so it's "balanced" by default.

It's all shooting styles anyways, there's different techniques which all work decent for their purposes but for the ogre doing nature shots in bright daylight i think the technique leans towards underexposing a bit. For example here's cloud recovery in the last two images:

I used an aggressive general curve adjustment for the sake of pushing this to a limit, i used two similar ones with both but due to data available i pushed it a bit more for the underexposed one.
In the overexposed one we can see burned out and unrecoverable whites yet in the exposed areas that aren't that affected with haze/horizon fog we can see great colors. The underexposed one has much better detail and while the colors aren't as good in the near areas the ones in the horizon are not that different, meaning they can be tweaked a bit to reach a similar level… still in the end they mushed a bit so the tonal difference between planes is not as good so the perceived space depth is inferior yet the cloud recovery adds a bigger element so it balances out.
In theory this can be "easily" fixed by taking two or three exposures and perhaps manually adding the good parts if the clouds moved too fast for the camera, it can be done but it's not what a casual photographer would do or attempt.

 No.2111

>>2106
Depends on the sensor tech too. But I'd agree that overexposure without clipping (aka ETTR) is mostly ideal. The thing is, if the interesting stuff is in the shadows and your camera doesn't have a huge dynamic range, it's better to lose some highlights than shadows. Specially if it's a Canon (not the case here) with awful banding pattern noise.

 No.2115

>>2111
>if the interesting stuff is in the shadows it's better to lose some highlights than shadows.
No doubt, i agree completely, it's about getting that thing that catches the eye
>Specially if it's a Canon and their banding
lol 100%
What are we even discussing with camera stances and JPG performance, the ogre fag never returned and this detailed feedback from us is to try up his game with practice

 No.2462

Sorry I haven't updated in a while. Haven't been shooting much and haven't really gone outside at all. Will try and get some more on here in the next months

 No.2470

>>2462
No worries king, you're not alone in that predicament. I'm having trouble finding opportunities to shoot and so has been the /p/ BO so be assured >we comprehend.

 No.2471

>>2470
>and so has been the /p/ BO
You sure 'bout that

 No.2474

>>2471
Yeah he told me it's been hard lately, places becoming inaccessible because of lockdowns and stuff.



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