>Still shooting on auto Profl, you are burning the highlights.
>>1907>>1908Like in the first one but you corrected in the second, also better framing but should've taken 20 or 40 steps to the right so the cars were a guiding line or just not there. That's just a supposition of course, just saying because there might not be the possibility for that many side steps.
Still that's a nice place and the general idea not bad. But in a bunch of the earlier ones there's blur, you probably need to hold your camera tight. The technique goes around holding the camera with your arms very close to your torso and sticking the camera up your mug while you stop breathing for 3 to 5 seconds, that makes you much more stable and avoids sudden movements that might introduce motion blurs, that is extra pesky when shooting small details like foliage.
Oekaki related:
a) Elbows looking down, if possible all the way down. If you are fat (you are) they should rest at the height of ribs and belly.
b) Arms should close near and stick to the torso, with a biceps squeezing your tits like fashion.
c) Wrists at neck level, should not be limp nor bending but with small cameras that happens. Camera handling stance is another story.
d) Camera should be very close to the face, 10cm away at the very max. This is easy if using a viewfinder due to having to do it anyways but some are on the left side of the camera, if so then move your head rather than your arms.
With live view (the preview screen) you go for the 10cm distance.
Obviously these can vary depending on style and camera size, some fags like to shoot with their arms all the way to the right with a small camera just to be act cool, others do it one handed to do something else with their left hand which is understandable and some tough guys do use the right leaning pose rightfully so to frame with the right eye using a long-distance/telephoto lens after searching the subject with the left eye while the focus spot is in the periphery vision.
On a compact camera with normal focal lengths your central arm stance is usually the most stable.
If you are in good terrain you can use an Isosceles leg stance (feet are shoulder width) without sticking your butt out/arching your back so much, if possible not at all to not look awkward and to resist more time without breathing. If you are in rocky or irregular terrain then a Weaver leg stance is better (dominant/stronger leg is on front acting as a pivot while the hindleg is giving you balance). The Weaver stance combination with the camera near face should look like a very close defense kickboxing fighting stance.
One more thing, when pressing the shutter button you can use a two-press technique to minimize camera shake. The shutter button (the one that makes the picture) usually has a "distance" or "travels" when you push it before it takes the picture, some click when you reach that point while others don't, most cameras use that soft press as the focusing function.
The two-touch technique consists of pressing the button while searching anyways even if you are not ready to shoot and then softly press it again, effectively making it much softer to activate thus reduce the abrupt force from your fingers that might shake the camera. Because the focusing mechanism is in that initial push many people move that function in the menu and assign it to another button, more commonly to a button very close to the thumb, otherwise the shots would constantly be out of focus messes.
And remember, shooting pictures with a camera is like hypothetically shooting undesirable targets with a firearm, stance-wise. You need a rock solid position and practice once in a while muscle memory so you can quickly (comfortably) acquire target/framing. When you become good or natural at it then it becomes second-nature and thus you forget about it, making things more fun.
